Looking at the ignition system today --i but i do not know who made the system - i understood it to be pazon but i am told they have only been going around 5 years so i'm puzzled the wires have gone all brittle so i was hoping to replace the the wires only on dismantling i found the wires are soldered to a pickup make unknown covered with a hard setting compound which if i was to remove may be hard to replicate,
any thoughts on a solution to my problem HELP ! |
Administrator
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The original is luminition, if it has Pazon it is an after market addition. Can you photograph it and put online then we will be able to tell for sure. If you can remove it epoxy will do as its only a compound to protect the connections. Just not too much heat on the soldering. It's only an l e d which the shutter breaks the beam. Any good electronics company should be able to supply something similar if all goes wrong. Sent from my iPhone
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You should be able to determine the type of system from pictures from the supplier's websites. If it is a Pazon or Boyer it will have a circular printed circuit board behind the oil pump with probably a circular magnet on the crankshaft. A typical Pazon system is shown here:
http://www.pazon.com/ignition-system/sure-fire-british-twin-12volt.html A Lumenintion system will look like the PMA50 system here: http://www.newtronic.co.uk/index.php/products/category/70-standard optronic The Lumenition system has a rotating flat "shutter" on the crankshaft which cuts a light beam. A light switch is mounted on a plate. All the electronics are in an aluminium box fixed near the coils. The system originally fitted to Silks is obsolete with no spares available. Although the current PMA50 looks similar to the original Silk system none of the parts are compatible. The Lumention system uses a mechanical advance and retard system and the Pazon and Boyer systems use electronic advance and retard. I would not try soldering new wires onto a light switch directly. I suspect it is only the insulation which is brittle and the copper wire is ok. I would look closely at doing Gasman's earlier suggestion of stripping off the insulation leaving a long tail to solder new wires to and using heat shrink to insulate the exposed tail. I suppose the obvious question is does the system actually work as it is before spending too much time on it? ' |
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