Clutch bearing lubrication

[Jurassic]

Hi new owner alert,I live on the North coast of Cornwall and just before Xmas purchased a 1978 Silk mk11 no. 83/85 in fairly good overall condition. I'm in the process of doing an inventory of the actual parts used in its construction (they seem to vary from those itemized in the workshop manual). It came with a fair bit of history, and via an image on the internet I managed to contact the son of a previous owner who had it from 1997 until 2004. Clive Worrall had done a bottom end rebuild in 1998 when it had done 20,800 miles. It is now on 23,200 so I'm hoping the engine is ok. I've had an endoscope down the bores and ports and it seems good.Looking through the forum has answered a good many of my questions, but I do still have a few queries (not too many I hope): because the clutch was seized I had to remove the drive sprocket outrigger bearing housing. I noted that the bearing is an unsealed caged ball bearing. What lubricant is used for this?Before I decide how far to take the refurbishment I would like to run the engine. As far as I know it last ran in 2017. I will of course change all lubricants and coolant! Is it ok to do this with the clutch cover housing off? I need to readjust the clutch after slackening off the adjusters to free it.When dismantling the carb (Amal mkii 34mm) I noticed as mentioned in a forum post that the slide was only opening about 7/8th with the tommaselli daytona throttle -is this a common problem?The o ring seals between oil pump and ignition housing appear to be 1/2"X3/8"- is this right?There seem so many variables. If it's assumed that gearbox internals are standard is there a recognised best (for drivability) final drive/rear wheel ratio? I see on the Silk website engine data that final drive is given as 17 teeth with 15/16 as alternatives. My manual states 19teeth with 18/20 as alternatives. Mine is 18 t. Both specify a 36teeth rear sprocket. Hope the above is meaningful and hasn't been done to death already. Thanks 

[hendred]

Welcome to the forum and Silk ownership. I lubricate the outrigger bearing with high melting point/wheel bearing grease. Personally I wouldn't run the engine with the outrigger bearing removed.  It may be ok as the clutch is mounted on the gearbox sleeve gear but I wouldn't  take the chance. A sticking clutch is quite common, mine usually frees after kicking the engine over a few times with the clutch pulled, some owners leave the bike the clutch lever tied back to prevent it sticking.
Before replacing the coolant check out the engine overheating/coolant threads, some owners have found that the engine overheats on 50% glycol ready mixed coolant, cured by diluting it.  The engine doesn't have a water pump and the high viscosity of some ready mixed coolants adversely affects the circulation.
The problem with carb not opening fully really affects the 38mm carb.  The Tomasselli throttle has a pull designed for a 32mm carb, the screw on the twist grip body is a throttle stop, try adjusting this, it may allow the carb to open more.  Can't help with exact size of the oil pump o rings, I use one that fits well from my selection box.
I have a 17 tooth final drive sprocket and I think it is under geared. Helps with pulling away as 1st gear is quite high but makes for a busy engine at cruising speeds.  
I would also check the front brake hose, it may still be the original and the outer rubber cracks and also change the brake fluid. If it has the original AP brake master cylinder seals are available but are very expensive for what they are.
Hope this helps and enjoy your new bike.

[RoyalBlue]

Hi and Welcome. There are two o-rings internal to the pump and two o-rings from the pump to the engine case. The sizes I used were:

1.6x2.75mm
1.5x9.5mm

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p80702/1.6mm-Section-2.75mm-Bore-NITRILE-70-Rubber-O-Rings/product_info.html

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p80518/1.5mm-Section-9.5mm-Bore-NITRILE-70-Rubber-O-Rings/product_info.html

The above were selected on my measurements and not based in any Silk reference documentation. Hence caveat emptor. Good luck.

[Jurassic]

Thanks for the helpful information. I'm going to be re detailing the black engine paintwork. What is the preferred paint to use. The frame paintwork is in overall good condition, but needs touching up in small areas, as far as I can see it is enameled (probably original) as opposed to powder coated. What is the consensus of opinion regarding type of paint, also brush or spray?